How "Officine DEFRUTUM" Balsamic Vinegar is Made

Officinae DEFRUTUM, set in the countryside of Modena (Italy), has been producing traditional Balsamic Vinegar for more than four generations. The family carefully follows time-honored methods, using only grapes grown on their own land, ensuring complete control over quality from vineyard to bottle.

The craft of Officinae DEFRUTUM Balsamic Vinegar unfolds through six traditional stages, outlined below.

Phase 1: Harvest

In September and October, when the balance between sugars and acidity is at its peak, Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes are handpicked. This traditional harvest ensures that only the healthiest and most flavorful bunches are selected. Each choice directly influences the vinegar’s future character. During the winter, skilled pruning is carried out to preserve the vitality of the vines, securing both plant health and the excellence of future harvests.

Phase 2: Pressing

Once harvested, the grapes are gently pressed using a soft system designed to protect their integrity. This method prevents excess polyphenols—found in seeds and skins—from being released, which could otherwise slow fermentation or add unwanted bitterness. The resulting must is filtered, leaving behind only the purest juice, ready for the next crucial phase.

Phase 3: Cooking

Within 24 hours of pressing, the must is cooked to halt fermentation and begin concentration. Over direct fire, in open stainless-steel boilers, the juice simmers slowly for 36 to 48 hours until its volume is reduced by half. The process begins with a rapid boil to sterilize, followed by gentle cooking at around 85°C to preserve aromatic richness. Afterward, the must cools and rests until January, naturally decanting before it can be transferred to barrels.

Phase 4: Aging

The transformation of must into Balsamic Vinegar takes place in a series of barrels known as a batteria. Each battery contains at least nine barrels of decreasing size, from large 180-liter casks to the smallest of just 10 liters. Each barrel is made from a different wood—oak, cherry, chestnut, juniper, mulberry, and others—contributing unique aromas and flavors. Stored in the attics, the vinegar is exposed to Modena’s natural climate: hot summers accelerate evaporation, while cold winters encourage slow concentration. Over the years, the vinegar develops a complex bouquet, shaped both by nature and tradition.

Phase 5: Transfers

Every winter, while the vinegar rests in the cold, the liquid is carefully transferred from one barrel to the next smaller one. This delicate operation, known as travasi, allows the vinegar to absorb the essence of different woods and gradually concentrate as volumes reduce. At the same time, the barrels are inspected to ensure their condition, guaranteeing that each step of aging proceeds without compromise. This meticulous care, repeated year after year, is essential to achieving the perfect balance of texture, aroma, and flavor.

Phase 6: Tasting

The final assurance of quality lies in the expertise of the Master Tasters. Each year, they draw samples from the barrels to examine clarity, consistency, aroma, and taste. Candlelight is traditionally used to judge the vinegar’s color and brightness, while aroma and flavor are assessed for intensity, persistence, harmony, and the delicate equilibrium of sweet and sour. Tasting is done with a small spoon to avoid altering flavor, and results are compared among experts to reach a shared judgment. Only through this careful evaluation is the excellence of Officinae DEFRUTUM’s Balsamic Vinegar confirmed, preserving a tradition passed down from father to son.